Learn to sail like a pro when you keep your sailboat shipshape and “squared away”. Save tons of money on repairs, sailing gear replacement, and go sailing more. Use these seven top sailing tips to stay ahead of the sailboat double layer mink fur lashes manufacturer game today!Dioea
Remember this one single fact about sailboat maintenance–the more time and effort you take today, the less time and money you will spend tomorrow. That applies to hull maintenance, deck maintenance, and standing and running rigging double layer mink fur lashes manufacturer.
Follow these seven easy steps to get started:
1. Protect Your Docking and Anchor Line
Attach a line to your boat and lead it to a cleat, piling, bollard, ring, rail, sail, and you can guarantee that line will rub and wear somewhere. Chafe kills lines, and will deplete your “go sailing” pocketbook faster than you can raise a mainsail! Stop chafe at the pass. Wrap rags, old fire or garden hose, or strips of canvas around a docking or anchor line wherever it touches the hull or passes through a fitting. This will protect your costly line and extend its double layer mink fur lashes manufacturer life.
2. Replace Worn Running Rigging
What’s the most forgotten piece of rope rigging on a sailboat? And one that often gets chafed and worn more than any other. Failure of this could put you in hot sea-water! Furling line. Consider that this line passes over more parts than most any other rigging. It winds in and out of a drum, passes over and through multiple fairlead blocks and then to the double layer mink fur lashes manufacturer.
But that’s just a start. Make sure to check your halyards, boom vang, main sheets, Genoa sheets, and traveler lines for wear. Pay particular attention where they are tied onto a block becket (strap) or fitting; where they pass through blocks or double layer mink fur lashes manufacturer, or where they contact other fittings. For example, the Genoa sheets rub over the shrouds, as do the Genoa clews, so the sheets in those areas have high chafe-potential.
Make up new sheets or halyards if you suspect the line might be past its service life. That could well safe you a trip to the top of the mast (broken halyard), or having to wrestle a Genoa sail flapping like a mad cobra in the wind (broken furling line).
3. Check your Anchor Gear before You Sail
Not many pieces of true “boat insurance” get ignored as much as the boat anchor. Sure, it takes up residence up at the bow–or worse–inside a locker. But if you need an anchor to stop for a rest, in an emergency, or to keep from being blown onto a lee shore, it needs to be ready to go in double layer mink fur lashes manufacturer.
Inspect the shank (long arm) for warping each time before you sail. Look straight down at the anchor from a standing position. If you see the slightest amount of bend, consider your anchor worthless. You cannot straighten a bent shank without severe loss of metal strength. Check all the “joints” of your anchor, like metal thimbles (those tear-dropped shaped pieces of metal that protect rope eyes), shackles that join rope to chain, and the bolt where your anchor dead-ends to your boat, and all along the rope part of your anchor line for wear.
Replace rusted thimbles, frozen shackles, and chafed double layer mink fur lashes manufacturer. Lash metal seizing wire from the shackle pin onto the shackle body to keep pins in place. Once a year end-for-end your rope or chain rode. Swap the end dead-ended to your boat for the end attached to your anchor. This can extend expensive anchor rode life by 50% or more!
4. Look for Loose or Missing Rigging “Pins”
Standing rigging (stays and shrouds) keeps the mast in place–as long as it maintains integrity. Check each cotter pin–those “bobby pin”-like fittings found in holes of your wire rigging and clevis pins. Replace worn, broken, or missing cotter pins before you cast off.
5. Stop Leaks before they Become Bigger
Keep an eye on water collection spots. Any low spot aboard can and will collect water. A bit of condensation can be expected. Use a light, even in daylight, to check sail lockers, engine drip pans (the pan area beneath the bottom of the engine), cabin lockers, bilges forward and aft, and the anchor well.
Crawl back and shine your light into the shaft exit area on sailboats with inboard diesel engines. Shaft exits and couplings (where the engine joins to the shaft) are notorious “leakers”. And, these areas are often forgotten because they are out of sight. Marine insurance companies attribute leaky shaft couplings as one of the major causes of sinking at a dock or mooring.
So, it pays to check this area before and after you go sailing, arrive at an anchorage, or get underway from a pier, mooring, or anchorage. It takes just seconds and will give you peace-of-mind for a more relaxed sailing day!
6. Rinse, Flake, and Fold Your Sails
Your sails take it on the chin through air and spray filled with salt, dirt, and dust. Wash off your sails at the first opportunity after a coastal cruise. If day sailing, rinse down your sails once a season. Make this chore faster and easier if you rinse the sails on deck and raise them to dry on a light air day while dockside. At the end of your cruise or the end of the sailing season, fold and bag your sails to keep them clean, out of the harmful UV rays, and extend their double layer mink fur lashes manufacturer.
7. Wash and Dry Lines before You Stow
Stow lines clean and dry. Lower an anchor line and chain to the bottom and it’s sure to pick up mud, sand crystals and other bottom matter. All of these act like tiny, microscopic razors to saw the delicate fibers of your anchoring line. After you return from a sail or cruise, pull the anchor line out of your anchor locker. Give it a good fresh water rinse. Hang it over you rail or lifelines to dry. Flake it back into your anchor locker dry to keep it mold and mildew free for many seasons to come.
Use these seven super sailing tips to maintain your costly sailboat and sailing gear in tip top shape. Save money and repair costs–wherever in the world you choose to go sailing!